Autograph journal of a 'Trip to Singapore' from Johannesburg, by an unnamed female doctor (presumably the wife of the South African political activist Basil Stein).

Author: 
[Journal of a trip to Singapore from Johannesburg, South Africa, 1967-1968; Basil Stein (1928-2012), South African political activist]
Publication details: 
From Johannesburg, South Africa, to Singapore. 21 October 1967 to 31 January 1968.
£120.00
SKU: 13274

57pp., 4to. In ruled notebook, with marbled boards and brown cloth spine. In very good condition, on lightly-aged paper. A light, observant account of a holiday, with details of her pastimes, the individuals she encounters, social engagements. First page headed 'Trip to Singapore Oct. 1967'. The first entry begins: '21st Oct. Left Jburg by train at 6.30 PM Ben [her husband] saw me off - gave me a box of Lindt chocs! but still could not refrain from pointing out how expensive they were. Usually brings me Black Magic which he buys wholesale (1 box at wholesale price) He shed copious tears which embarrassed me, & I was glad no one else had come to see me off. He said I should know that he was a "clean" man - whatever that may mean. | I had a coupe to myself - went in to dinner at 7P.M. Rowdy lot of golfers on train & had to run the gauntlet of them through bar to dining saloon with wolf whistles - probably do it for ever woman they see.' On 26 October she wears 'my long pink evening dress [...] I think I looked quite nice - had many compliments paid to me - even Mr F[eldberg]. (the J. couple) at my table trying to flirt with me - much to the irritation of his wife & me. The two of them have dissected & analysed me & taken me to pieces & were still not satisfied until she asked if my husband's name was Ben & then she had at last "placed me", & said she knew him years ago.' She describes another passenger as 'the lady who has been travelling 21 years - Mrs Burgess. What they are going to do when the ships are withdrawn I don't know. They are a couple left over from Edwardian times. She is quietly elegant - slightly old fashioned in dress but seems to have stepped out of one of those drawing room comedies of Noel Coward's - rather a delightful person in some ways. The husband is tall & thin & also rather elegant but somewhat more American than she is. She moves with infinite grace & the sort one could not imagine ever using a swear word.' Other passengers are described, including Mrs Baker-Win ('a real Irish body'), Mrs Lever ('a tall statuesque grey blonde who has lived in India & is returning to Singapore'). Of Mauritius she writes (31 October): 'Rather poor & slummy but better in interior - wide sweeping sugar cane fields'. She has 'private medical jokes' with 'Dr. Leigh' before discovering some unpleasant information about him during a chat on 5 November 'with a young 2nd engineer this evening (name Eric) over drinks in the bar - He told me some interesting things about the doctor. He thinks he was a Nazi! & that originally his name was Levy - not Leigh & that his previous wife is a doctor living in Holland. He, Eric, says that when the ship called at Brazil the Jewish community showed their dislike of the doctor.' On 13 November the ship arrives at Singapore, where 'Joyce and Charles' are waiting. Their house is 'about 6 miles from town very beautiful setting with about 1/2 acre of ground'. Storms cause frequent electrical black outs, and she spends most evenings in the 'club', where she meets a number of individuals, including 'Mr & Mrs Upcott [...] rather domineering woman'. On 21 November there is 'Great excitement over devaluation of stirling - also new dollar here replacing old - some chaos caused.' On 26 November she goes to see 'the Haw Garden. Tiger Balm - most amazing sets like Walt Disney cartoons but Chinese in origin - cannot begin to describe. The original maker of Tiger Balm left it to the nation, & the most weird figures are shown in some sort of Chinese historical setting, with chamber of Horror of Chinese torture as well.' On 30 November she has 'a busman's holiday [...] Went to the hospital & did a round with the chief surgeon. Very interesting cases. Have same Ca[ncer]. of oesophagus & naso pharynx as in Joburg. Next day went to XRay Dept. very well received - They do more exams there & pretty well up to date. Strange people though (Chinese) let me stand whilst talking in a ring with 4-5 of them.' She describes 'a wayside Chinese cafe - very dirty but interesting', and a visit to 'the Jade House - collection of Jade given by the Haw brothers to the nation - in huge mansion displayed in large cabinets'. 'The streets are spoiled by the open dirty canals which run alongside, & sometimes spill over on to the pavements. There are markets - very colourful but very dirty & smelly. | Some evenings, special markets with stalls are set up all along Orchard Rd with every conceivable commodity you can imagine. They are even in front of the Singapore Hotel - for tourist attraction'. On 16 December she goes 'to American club cocktail party for opening of Manhattan room by the American ambassadors wife'. On 6 January 1968 she hosts 'a Chinese dinner [...] at the Majestic for 10 - I wished to return some of the hospitality I had enjoyed [...] Had a most sumptuous meal of 10 courses & drinks.' 13 January: 'Went to buffet dance at Upcotts' - Florence & Sidney - most people propping up the bar in their lounge - met a few army types there & one woman Mrs McKay who is headmistress of primary school here.' She finds the Raffles Hotel 'altered from previously but still rather grand looking shops on ground floor'. On 30 Janaury she is 'Kept awake by crackers going off for Chinese New Year - terrific din. Went for drive to Jurong industrial district - quite remarkable building of factories etc. Economic Dep. Board - also housing scheme - quite fantastic.' On 31 January the 'Upcotts came to lunch to say goodbye' and 'Joyce and Charles gave me a lovely jade figure as a farewell gift [...] To bed & leaving tomorrow at 9A.M. Ship to sail at 1P.M.' From the Basil Stein papers.